No or very little nose prickle; immediately deeper and richer than you might expect. Starts as creamy, nutty, vanilla toffee, crème brûlée perhaps, with syrup sponge in the background. Then fresher traces of fruit cake mix, or a bunch of sweet, ripe dessert grapes (each suggesting a little European oak) and apple dumpling, eventually becoming an entire fruiterer’s shop. Adding a good splash of water delivers a sweet and fruity nose; light, but with some depth. There’s a clear Speyside focus, with tinned fruit and an underlying rich, Christmas pudding-like maltiness.

Warming at cask strength. Rich and nutty yet also dusty. Then, in turn: toffee, caramel, tangy fresh fruits; biscuit, short pastry, fig rolls. With water the mouth-feel is more soft and creamy and the taste is sweet throughout, suggesting hints of plum pudding and brandy sauce

Short. Dark, earthy chocolate and hints of tropical fruit. Later oak-dry on the palate. With water, some sweet cider-apple tartness and even more seductive, creamy oak.